Sado Island lies 20mi/32km off the west coast of Japan. With the shape of a slanted figure “S” it has a coastline of 163mi/267km and a population of around 55,000. With its dramatic mountains, lush forests and temperate climate, Sado Island is an enticing retreat. In medieval times it was a place of exile for those who fell out of favour, notably aristocrats and artists, with the rulers of the day. Today the eclectic population and cultural riches are attributed to the presence of these early exiles. It has moved from being an isolated penal colony to an island of artistic types. It is now home to the world-renowned Kodo Taiko Drumming troupe. This was the aspect that spiked our interest in visiting. After a high-speed ferry ride, we rented a car and had two full days absorbing the rural setting and natural surroundings.

Our first bullet train was bound for the west coast city of Niigata where we would catch the ferry to Sado Island. We had a layover of over two hours so we did a city bus tour which stopped at the Pier with a great fish market where we were able to take photos. After a high-speed ferry ride, we rented a car and had two full days absorbing the rural setting and natural surroundings.

On the island we were based in the south near Ogi Town at our first traditional Japanese inn (ryokan) with only five rooms. Hananoki Ryokan was easy to miss from the road at 6pm in the dark. With no English signage, we drove past it three times. The highlights at this inn were our hosts and the two kaiseki meals per day. Kaiseki dining includes an appetizer, sashimi, a simmered dish, a grilled dish and a steamed course. These are small dishes but there are several of each, as you will soon see. We dined in a beautiful room with long carved and polished wood tables, and a few delicate Japanese tchotchkes. We were the rare guests that spent three nights, and each evening we were served one of these superb kaiseki meals, which consisted of delicate dishes of fish, vegetables, varied forms of tofu and salads. Other guests were all Japanese but several attempted to communicate with us which was surprising and fun in the attempt.

We dressed for dinner in our yukata, similar to a bathrobe with a jacket, and ‘inside’ shoes, worn to protect the delicate tatami mats. The shoes routine was confusing at first – wherever they expect you to remove your shoes, they offer ‘inside’ shoes, usually a slipper style. Joe couldn’t fit into the ones here, his feet are too wide. It made us all laugh to see him clomping around with them half on.

Sample of some kaiseki dishes at Hananoki Ryokan (click on photo for full description and image)

Two of three nights we had a whole red snow crab each! Other starting morsels were cold salads of pickles, seaweed, eggplant & snails.

One sashimi course included yellowtail, sea bream, flounder and another fish (English translation unknown).

Here is a somewhat typical Japanese breakfast, another kaiseki spread with small dishes. There are a few familiar things like the salad, a few unusual but appealing bites, and a few unpalatable ones.

Potato salad, prawn, sweet potato or pumpkin, mushrooms, salt squid fritters.

Sashimi of sea bream, scallop, pheasant grouper & cherry trout

Fried cod

On our second morning we were asked if we preferred a Japanese breakfast or a ‘bread’ breakfast, meaning a Western breakfast. A toaster was brought to our table and the result was a very respectable spread to get us off to a good start.

Tempura fish and vegetables with a half crab.

Two of three nights we had a whole red snow crab each! Other starting morsels were cold salads of pickles, seaweed, eggplant & snails.

One sashimi course included yellowtail, sea bream, flounder and another fish (English translation unknown).

Here is a somewhat typical Japanese breakfast, another kaiseki spread with small dishes. There are a few familiar things like the salad, a few unusual but appealing bites, and a few unpalatable ones.

Potato salad, prawn, sweet potato or pumpkin, mushrooms, salt squid fritters.

Sashimi of sea bream, scallop, pheasant grouper & cherry trout

Fried cod

On our second morning we were asked if we preferred a Japanese breakfast or a ‘bread’ breakfast, meaning a Western breakfast. A toaster was brought to our table and the result was a very respectable spread to get us off to a good start.

Tempura fish and vegetables with a half crab.

A taste of the drive up Skyline Drive

A taste of drive down Skyline Drive

Along Skyline Drive, we encountered the Sado Gold Mine. Activity at the mining operation ceased in 1989 after 400 years of production.

On the way home after our first day we stopped at the Hananoki “sister inn” to experience the onsen that was shared by both. The serene beauty of Japan is a perfect setting for the therapeutic and relaxing qualities of these hot springs. The staff were very pleased to see us since few foreigners visit this part of Japan, and visibly delighted to be our very first onsen experience. We had read a lot about onsen culture and etiquette and we were both a bit anxious about the proper use of the natural hot springs. Women and men bathe separately and clothing is verbotin in the water. The onsen is often a household’s only bathing facility and people take no notice of the other bathers. In my case, I secretly observed the proper procedure, which included a sit-down shower before, but the process was really not at all challenging. My standout moment from this first visit was the child of about seven years who bowed to me several times as we passed each other in the nude! The waters of the onsen are really hot so neither Joe or I stayed in very long. This, our first, was an indoor version which doesn’t strike me as desirable as an outdoor onsen.

One of the main reasons to go to Sado Island was to visit the Taiko Drumming Center and have the experience of beating these massive drums. The largest one, pictured left, is nicknamed Mr. Potato.

This was a memorable experience that more than met our expectations.

Joe’s exhibits his Taiko
drumming talents.

Mary’s take on Taiko drumming.

Below, photos of the charming village of Shukunegi, the historic seaside home of former shipwrights.

Tub boat in action.

Tub boat in action.

Myosenji Temple includes a 5-storied pagoda and numerous other temple buildings, five also pictured below. This was one of our favorite temples. The setting sun and the utter peace of the solitude may have been contributing factors.